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Collagen, elastin, and other components of the skin diminish with age and may be replaced through the use of cosmeceuticals.
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Peptides induce neocollagenesis replacing lost extracellular matrix and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
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Cosmeceuticals containing growth factors and cytokines involved in wound repair aid in the repair of chronic damage to the skin.
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Allogenic stem cells derived from human adipocytes produce growth factors which promote fibroblasts within the skin along with promoting
Next Generation Cosmeceuticals: The Latest in Peptides, Growth Factors, Cytokines, and Stem Cells
Section snippets
Key points
Peptides
Peptides are short amino acid chains with a functional ability to alter skin physiology.11 The basic cosmetic mechanism behind peptides is to increase collagen production, replacing lost ECM and reducing the size and appearance of wrinkles. Peptides are able to regulate fibroblast production of ECM components,12, 13 mainly through the use of signal peptides. It is hypothesized that the introduction of subfragments of these components, such as elastin and collagen, will act as feedback
Growth factors and cytokines
Many growth factors are involved in wound healing, both chronic and acute. Growth factors have been introduced into the cosmeceutical world based on the hypothesis that the aging process of skin is similar to that of a chronic wound.9 Their ability to increase fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation within the dermis, thus inducing ECM formation, supports this idea.7 Aging skin has reduced amounts of fibroblasts and decreased levels of growth factors. By supplementing these normal growth
Stem cells
Stem cells are being studied for their potential use in cosmetics. These products, which include serums and creams, can contain many stem cell extracts to renew, generate, and repair skin. A stem cell is one that can divide and proliferate, constantly renewing itself, and can subsequently be differentiated. Stem cells can be used in cosmeceutical products; they are extracted from animal or plant sources and then cultured in the laboratory to yield extracts of the stem cells. Sources include
Summary
Cosmeceuticals are a safe and effective way to improve the undesired effects of aging. There are various agents that can be applied to address wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Cosmeceuticals exert local effects, without systemic absorption. They are also generally well tolerated and no major adverse effects have been observed. Many different options exist, including peptides, growth factors, cytokines, and stem cells, which have joined the cosmeceutical armamentarium.
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Cited by (0)
Disclosures: Dr D. Berson is a consultant for Proctor and Gamble, Allergan, Galderma, Rock Creek Pharmaceuticals, La Roche Posay, and Anacor.