Elsevier

Dermatologic Clinics

Volume 32, Issue 1, January 2014, Pages 13-21
Dermatologic Clinics

Next Generation Cosmeceuticals: The Latest in Peptides, Growth Factors, Cytokines, and Stem Cells

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.det.2013.09.003Get rights and content

Section snippets

Key points

  • Collagen, elastin, and other components of the skin diminish with age and may be replaced through the use of cosmeceuticals.

  • Peptides induce neocollagenesis replacing lost extracellular matrix and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

  • Cosmeceuticals containing growth factors and cytokines involved in wound repair aid in the repair of chronic damage to the skin.

  • Allogenic stem cells derived from human adipocytes produce growth factors which promote fibroblasts within the skin along with promoting

Peptides

Peptides are short amino acid chains with a functional ability to alter skin physiology.11 The basic cosmetic mechanism behind peptides is to increase collagen production, replacing lost ECM and reducing the size and appearance of wrinkles. Peptides are able to regulate fibroblast production of ECM components,12, 13 mainly through the use of signal peptides. It is hypothesized that the introduction of subfragments of these components, such as elastin and collagen, will act as feedback

Growth factors and cytokines

Many growth factors are involved in wound healing, both chronic and acute. Growth factors have been introduced into the cosmeceutical world based on the hypothesis that the aging process of skin is similar to that of a chronic wound.9 Their ability to increase fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation within the dermis, thus inducing ECM formation, supports this idea.7 Aging skin has reduced amounts of fibroblasts and decreased levels of growth factors. By supplementing these normal growth

Stem cells

Stem cells are being studied for their potential use in cosmetics. These products, which include serums and creams, can contain many stem cell extracts to renew, generate, and repair skin. A stem cell is one that can divide and proliferate, constantly renewing itself, and can subsequently be differentiated. Stem cells can be used in cosmeceutical products; they are extracted from animal or plant sources and then cultured in the laboratory to yield extracts of the stem cells. Sources include

Summary

Cosmeceuticals are a safe and effective way to improve the undesired effects of aging. There are various agents that can be applied to address wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Cosmeceuticals exert local effects, without systemic absorption. They are also generally well tolerated and no major adverse effects have been observed. Many different options exist, including peptides, growth factors, cytokines, and stem cells, which have joined the cosmeceutical armamentarium.

First page preview

First page preview
Click to open first page preview

References (71)

  • K. Maeda et al.

    Analysis of an expression profile of genes in the human adipose tissue

    Gene

    (1997)
  • W.S. Kim et al.

    Antiwrinkle effect of adipose-derived stem cell: activation of dermal fibroblast by secretory factors

    J Dermatol Sci

    (2009)
  • W.S. Kim et al.

    Evidence supporting antioxidant action of adipose-derived stem cells: protection of human dermal fibroblasts from oxidative stress

    J Dermatol Sci

    (2008)
  • M.H. Kim et al.

    Cryopreserved human adipogenic-differentiated pre-adipocytes: a potential new source for adipose tissue regeneration

    Cytotherapy

    (2007)
  • W. Wagner et al.

    Comparative characteristics of mesenchymal stem cells from human bone marrow, adipose tissue, and umbilical cord blood

    Exp Hematol

    (2005)
  • J. Gimble et al.

    Adipose-derived adult stem cells: isolation, characterization, and differentiation potential

    Cytotherapy

    (2003)
  • I. Kratchmarova et al.

    A proteomic approach for identification of secreted proteins during the differentiation of 3T3-L1 preadipocytes to adipocytes

    Mol Cell Proteomics

    (2002)
  • M.E. Byrne et al.

    Plant stem cells: divergent pathways and common themes in shoots and roots

    Curr Opin Genet Dev

    (2003)
  • C.E. Griffiths et al.

    Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid)

    N Engl J Med

    (1993)
  • V. Rangarajan et al.

    Topical growth factors for skin rejuvenation

  • J. Uitto

    The role of elastin and collagen in cutaneous aging: intrinsic aging versus photoexposure

    J Drugs Dermatol

    (2008)
  • S. Seite et al.

    Elastin changes during chronological and photo-aging: the important role of lysozyme

    J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol

    (2006)
  • L. Baumann

    Skin ageing and its treatment

    J Pathol

    (2007)
  • M.H. Gold et al.

    Efficacy of novel skin cream containing mixture of human growth factors and cytokines for skin rejuvenation

    J Drugs Dermatol

    (2007)
  • D.N. Sauder

    Effect of age on epidermal immune function

    Dermatol Clin

    (1986)
  • H. Sundaram et al.

    Topically applied phsysiologically balanced growth factors: a new paradigm of skin rejuvenation

    J Drugs Dermatol

    (2009)
  • K. Lintner

    Promoting production in the extracellular matrix without compromising barrier

    Cutis

    (2002)
  • M.P. Lupo

    Cosmeceutical peptides

    Dermatol Surg

    (2005)
  • O. Langholz et al.

    Collagen and collagenase gene expression in three dimensional collagen lattices are differently regulated by alpha I beta I and alpha II beta I integrins

    J Cell Biol

    (1995)
  • K. Katayama et al.

    Regulation of extracellular matrix production by chemically synthesized subfragments of type I collagen carboxy propeptide

    Biochemistry

    (1991)
  • L.R. Robinson et al.

    Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin

    Int J Cosmet Sci

    (2005)
  • C. Blanes-Mira et al.

    A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity

    Int J Cosmet Sci

    (2002)
  • A. Varvaresou et al.

    Efficacy and tolerance study of an oligopeptide with potential anti-aging activity

    J Chem Dermatol Sci Appl

    (2011)
  • K. Lintner

    Promoting ECM production without compromising barrier

    Cutis

    (2002)
  • S. Gonzalez et al.

    Chronic photodamage in skin of mast cell-deficient mice

    Photochem Photobiol

    (1999)
  • Cited by (0)

    Disclosures: Dr D. Berson is a consultant for Proctor and Gamble, Allergan, Galderma, Rock Creek Pharmaceuticals, La Roche Posay, and Anacor.

    View full text